The Temple of Eternal Fire.

Till about 50 years ago, a so-called eternal flame sprouting from the earth's bosom bore testimony to the religious syncretism of Zoroastrians and the Hindus. Both the communities venerated the fire at the temple known as Ateshgah in the modern-day Azerbaijan. Let's trace how a small town became the hub of intercultural exchange.

In the word Ateshgah, 'Atesh' stands for fire in Persian and 'Gah' means abode.

Did You Know?

* The area was under Persian control till 7th CE

* It was a small town along the Silk Route. Some Armenian historians say "seven sacred fire holes" were built by Shah Ardashir I (227 - 241) here.

* After the area was wrested by Islamic invaders, small pockets of Zoroastrians remained. These followers kept venerating the fire holes.

* 10th century CE Arabian historian mentions about fire worshippers of Ateshgah on the outskirts of Baku.

The Source Of The Eternal Flame

Surakhani falls on Absheron peninsula, which is famous as a locality where oil and gas ooze naturally from the ground and flames burn perpetually. The flame could be an outcome of an accidental ignition which assumed religious connotation later.

Location

Surakhani, around 30 km away from Azerbaijan's capital Baku.

Ateshgah

Built around 17th Century CE after Hindus, Sikhs and Zoroastrians arrivals to Ateshgah increased

17 Inscriptions : 14 in Sanskrit, 2 in Punjabi and 1 in Persian. Sanskrit inscriptions mentions Lord Ganesha, Jwalaji and Lord Shiva.

1880  The last Parsi priest sent to the region from India.

1969  The fire dies out, owing to USSR's exploitation. A pipeline from Baku supplies gas to keep the flame burning.

1998  Added to UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Why Baku?

Baku was an important trading town on the Great Silk Route. Carpets, fabrics, dry fruits among others trickled into the West from here through the Silk Route. Indian traders bound to West and China often traversed the route. Fire being important to both the Zoroastrians and the Hindus, the Temple of Eternal Flame piqued their interest.

The Structure

* Similar to caravanserials (travellers' Inns) of the region with pentagonal walls surrounding a courtyard 

* In the middle of the courtyard sits an altar, the centre piece of the temple complex where fire rituals were observed

* The altar is right above a natural gas vent, igniting a large flame in the middle and four smaller flames on the rooftop corners of the pavilion

* Surrounding the altar are a number of small cells which once housed ascetic worshippers and pilgrims

Indian Connection

* Some historians say the word 'gah' is a derivative of Sanskrit 'grih' meaning abode

* Claims have been made of Baku being a derivative of Bhagaun, meaning God in Sanskrit.

* Hindus, Parsis and Sikhs used to live in the area in large numbers till about 19th Century CE.

* Their dwindling population in the 19th Century CE.

Source. ExFile - History, the NIE.

Tailpiece.

Got up at our usual time, the chores and was ready by a quarter to 10. It was a wet day to begin with and though the rains stopped by 10 o'clock, the sky was overcast.

It was a quiet day.